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So, what can you do? Here are some options:

Stop down to f/4 or narrower. But, I'm going to assume that shooting at f/8 is not the ideal solution...
Shoot at f/1.2. There's no shift if you don't stop down.
Use Live View. Granted, that's not a good option with typical 50/1.2 subjects.
Manual focus with the DoF Preview button pressed. You'd almost certainly need the Eg-S focusing screen instead of the stock screen.
More complex AFMA. You could perform an AFMA at f/2, and you'd get different results than wide open - that adjustment would compensate for the focus shift at f/2, but not be applicable at f/1.6 or f/2.8, for example. So, you'd need to have a list of AFMA values, and change the setting to match the aperture you want to shoot at. Might work if you can pick an aperture for a shoot and stay there. (Side note here: the 1D X can store two AFMA settings for a zoom lens, one for the wide end and one for the long end; in theory, Canon could allow multiple, aperture-dependent AFMA settings for the 50L, which would certainly help with this issue.)
Intentionally front focus. Use an AF point over a feature that's a little bit in front of what you really want to focus on.
Tweak on the fly. The 50L has full-time manual focus, so you can use AF get you close, then turn the MF ring slightly to bring the focal plane forward a little. You'd likely want to be using back-button AF for that, and it would take a fair bit of practice to get it working reliably.


The 50L can deliver amazing shots, but due to the focus shift issue it takes some work and practice to get the most from the lens."
krótka instrukcja obsługi
przymknij do f4 - ciekawa rada dla tych którzy kupują szkło o jasności 1.2
rób zdjęcia tylko na f1.2 -
Live View - najlepiej na zombie, ciekawe czy utrzymasz się w GO, zawsze pozostaje statyw - LV kojarzy się z amatorką ale jak się rzuci korpus na statyw to nie zauważą
Manual Focus - zdecydowanie po to się kupuje system z af
Mikroregulacja - zrób sobie listę z wartościami mikroregulacji dla różnych przesłon - wybierasz przysłonę zmieniasz mikroregulację i robisz zdjęcie - to jest dobre nawet bardzo dobre , producent powinien zapewnić na to wsparcie ale tylko w pro korpusie
dobre rady zawsze w cenie